gallagher
Well-known member
@tigerwould said in [Homebrew](/post/1393711) said:
How long did you ferment that sucker?
Homebrew
- Thread starter cochise
- Start date
How long did you ferment that sucker?
I was on my back deck this morning milling grain for a dry Irish stout. This little guy decided to come down and spent about 20 minutes supervising the operation.
No doubt he (or she?) was panhandling but it sure brightened up my day.
I was on my back deck this morning milling grain for a dry Irish stout. This little guy decided to come down and spent about 20 minutes supervising the operation.
No doubt he (or she?) was panhandling but it sure brightened up my day.
Tigerwould
Well-known member
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1394665) said:
Sorry for the 5 month late reply.
12 days in the fermenter
C
Cobarcats
Guest
Turbo 500 Stainless Steel PRO KIT - T500 & Filter Pro.
Hi all, a couple of years ago I was going to buy this kit here in Brisbane but I got sick again.
I think I'd love to start again when I'm better, prob end of next year.
It however seems a bit daunting for me.
Do you advise that I have lessons or join a club, is this possible?
For somebody like me it looks overwhelming and if you are like me i suggest you need help from somebody who in the trade.This is far beyond what i used to do 40-50 years ago.Join a club and i am sure you will get a great result
Tigerwould
Well-known member
i haven’t done all grain brewing before (Just use the wort kits). For all grain brewing - YouTube and Facebook groups look good as well. Also homebrew clubs.
C
Cobarcats
Guest
Thanks guys. Yeh, I'm not the kind of guy who reinvents the wheel but one who rather be shown how to do things right by the experts.
I'll let you know what happens.
I'm in no hurry, I can't drink alcohol atm due to medical but one day I'll enjoy a brew again.
I'll let you know what happens.
I'm in no hurry, I can't drink alcohol atm due to medical but one day I'll enjoy a brew again.
C
Cobarcats
Guest
Yeh absolutely mate, whisky is the go for me, is it ok in this thread?
For anyone wanting to do all grain brewing the start up costs aren't too bad.
You need -
A mash tun (one of those 50L Gatorade eskies that the winning GF team usually tips over the coach) - my mate even uses a normal 50L esky.
One of those stick thermometers to check the mash temp
A hot water source. An electric urn that can hold as much as you can afford
A boiler that is about 30% larger than the amount of wort you are boiling - I like a gas fired one - some people use old kegs with the top cut off - I haven't
After boiling, the wort needs to be cooled to fermenting temperature before pitching the yeast - lots of online ideas about how to do that. Some cheap, some very expensive.
At least one fridge - you can get them cheap on all the usual 2nd hand sites and it's best to try and find one without a freezer
A temp controller - not expensive and after sanitation, the most important part of your brew
Ideally a grain mill - but a good homebrew shop will do it for you
Liquid yeast - makes all the difference
Yeast? Plenty of online resources that show you how to make a stir plate from a computer fan and "jiffy box" that, with a conical flask, dry malt extract and a stir bar grows your liquid yeast to a better level. I'm an electronics retard - and even I could do it.
Keg, don't bottle - it's a PITA (although with the keg cost and CO2 etc it pushes the cost up)
Ales - don't let the fermentation get past 20*C - preferably a constant 18*C
Lagers - try to ferment at around 9-10*C and for at least twice as long as your ales
When you are tipping your wort into the fermenter (at fermentation temp) splash the hell of out of it. Lots of oxygen is good for the yeast. Or spend a bit more and get a cylinder of O2 and an aeration stone - like with fish tanks.
Read John Palmer's free online book "How to Brew"
Have a bucket with a water and sanitiser solution (I use Betadine with concentration that makes the mix a mid brown colour. Every time you touch something that is going to touch your "beer" dip it and your hands in it first.
I know it sounds daunting. But you'll make the best beer you've ever tasted.
For anyone who likes an American Pale Ale I'd recommend that as a first effort. The high hop flavour can mask many mistakes you've made in the process.
I've never tried it but there are lots of people who like Brew In A Bag (BIAB)
Last tip? Get ready for the obsession when you taste your first brew 🙂
You need -
A mash tun (one of those 50L Gatorade eskies that the winning GF team usually tips over the coach) - my mate even uses a normal 50L esky.
One of those stick thermometers to check the mash temp
A hot water source. An electric urn that can hold as much as you can afford
A boiler that is about 30% larger than the amount of wort you are boiling - I like a gas fired one - some people use old kegs with the top cut off - I haven't
After boiling, the wort needs to be cooled to fermenting temperature before pitching the yeast - lots of online ideas about how to do that. Some cheap, some very expensive.
At least one fridge - you can get them cheap on all the usual 2nd hand sites and it's best to try and find one without a freezer
A temp controller - not expensive and after sanitation, the most important part of your brew
Ideally a grain mill - but a good homebrew shop will do it for you
Liquid yeast - makes all the difference
Yeast? Plenty of online resources that show you how to make a stir plate from a computer fan and "jiffy box" that, with a conical flask, dry malt extract and a stir bar grows your liquid yeast to a better level. I'm an electronics retard - and even I could do it.
Keg, don't bottle - it's a PITA (although with the keg cost and CO2 etc it pushes the cost up)
Ales - don't let the fermentation get past 20*C - preferably a constant 18*C
Lagers - try to ferment at around 9-10*C and for at least twice as long as your ales
When you are tipping your wort into the fermenter (at fermentation temp) splash the hell of out of it. Lots of oxygen is good for the yeast. Or spend a bit more and get a cylinder of O2 and an aeration stone - like with fish tanks.
Read John Palmer's free online book "How to Brew"
Have a bucket with a water and sanitiser solution (I use Betadine with concentration that makes the mix a mid brown colour. Every time you touch something that is going to touch your "beer" dip it and your hands in it first.
I know it sounds daunting. But you'll make the best beer you've ever tasted.
For anyone who likes an American Pale Ale I'd recommend that as a first effort. The high hop flavour can mask many mistakes you've made in the process.
I've never tried it but there are lots of people who like Brew In A Bag (BIAB)
Last tip? Get ready for the obsession when you taste your first brew 🙂
In that case I can offer a little info for once! Personally, i wouldn't use the T500. Its very finicky with regards to the cooling water flow. Its what's called a cooling modulated (CM) still. Have a look at the Alcoengine still that kegland sells, its a flow modulated (FM) and is much easier to use. Depending on what you want to make there are 2 basic types of still, a reflux still (like the T-500) or a pot still. Reflux really only makes neutral spirit, basically vodka. A pot still is needed for virtually anything else. You can use the same boiler but the top part is completely different. I have one of each and a small copper alembic pot still. If you want any other info feel free to PM me.
C
Cobarcats
Guest
Now we're talking Mr Walker. Great advice.
I take it that all this stuff can be found at major home brew shops 🤔
I'll phone the one that's near me and get some info. Cheers brother.
From my experience most places want to sell you the most expensive thing they can that will keep you coming back to them. Do a bit of reading and then scout around. Kegland are very cheap compared to most local shops. Then i use the local for all the consumables ad ingredients.
Aussie distiller forum has has really handy beginner articles that will help you figure out what you need. And then heaps of recipes to get you started.
C
Cobarcats
Guest
That's the site that got me interested.
Some good tips there brother, I've got time on my hands and won't rush into it. I like the idea of joining a club, hate to kill myself from poisoning and also waste money...defeats the purpose hey. 😉
Tigerwould
Well-known member
great methodology! I haven’t read John Palmers “how to brew”but will look it up.
I’ve got a 4 tap kegerator …and just buy the wort kits and ferment…then keg them. Easy & it last a long time Without going bad.
I’ll get into all grain in another year or so.
gallagher
Well-known member
I've just been doing the coopers tins the last few years. The wort kits worth it? My local brew shop does 19l brews for $65 which is good value
Tigerwould
Well-known member
IMO, it’s a step up from the tins. They are more expensive but foolproof… if you do the basics like sterilise all your equipment use the right yeast (at the right ferment temps) and keep the oxygen away. Once fermented, I put the beer into a 19 litre keg. Or 2x 10 litre kegs…way easier than bottling. The beer keeps better & longer .plus less mess and cleaning.
Hi Tigerwould, I agree.
Except when the wort kit is ready for the yeast to be pitched oxygenation is a good thing. Either sloshing it around in the fermenter like a maniac, or for the more obsessed (like me) you could get an O2 cylinder and an aquarium diffusion stone lol.
Some of you might be interested in this story (or not lol).
Years ago, on a hot summers day, a mate and his friend called in on a motorbike ride around NE Vic. I asked if they wanted a beer and told them it was home brew. They both said they'd been brewing the Cooper's kits which they liked and would love one.
I went to the shed and poured 3 schooners from a keg I had in the shed. It was a Marzen (Octoberfest) lager.
They loved it - best beer they'd ever tasted apparently, and they decided to come around and help on the next brew day.
I do 90L batches which gives me about 4x19L kegs. That's where my mate's obsession started.
He is a gun diesel mechanic, welder, electronics guru - anything mechanical he is brilliant at.
At the time I was milling 15 kg of grain by hand - it took ages. Not long after, he asked me to come to his place and help with a brew he was doing. He'd built all the gear - electronic grain mill that did in 2 mins what it used to take me half an hour to do, a 100L boiler, two 40L hot water urns, a temp controlled fridge, a large, copper tube coil with hose fitments to cool the wort, and a stir plate for the yeast that he had grown up for a few days.
Fast forward 5 years. He asked me to come and help with his first "big" batch, using the recipes we'd worked out together.
He had imported a Chinese brew system worth north of $100k and was about to open a brewery in NE Vic!
I helped him with his first 3-4 batches. Each brew length was 2,000L! He had 4x500L fermenters, digital temp control on each, full glycol cooling system, filters, etc, etc. Thank God he knew where all the pumps and hoses went because I had no idea!
He ran a successful brewery until a few things happened. Bushfires buggered the tourist industry, then Covid did the same, then his wife died, then he got crook. He ended up selling it.
There's still a robust porter on tap at the brewery that I developed - Philthy Phil's Porter!!
Years ago, on a hot summers day, a mate and his friend called in on a motorbike ride around NE Vic. I asked if they wanted a beer and told them it was home brew. They both said they'd been brewing the Cooper's kits which they liked and would love one.
I went to the shed and poured 3 schooners from a keg I had in the shed. It was a Marzen (Octoberfest) lager.
They loved it - best beer they'd ever tasted apparently, and they decided to come around and help on the next brew day.
I do 90L batches which gives me about 4x19L kegs. That's where my mate's obsession started.
He is a gun diesel mechanic, welder, electronics guru - anything mechanical he is brilliant at.
At the time I was milling 15 kg of grain by hand - it took ages. Not long after, he asked me to come to his place and help with a brew he was doing. He'd built all the gear - electronic grain mill that did in 2 mins what it used to take me half an hour to do, a 100L boiler, two 40L hot water urns, a temp controlled fridge, a large, copper tube coil with hose fitments to cool the wort, and a stir plate for the yeast that he had grown up for a few days.
Fast forward 5 years. He asked me to come and help with his first "big" batch, using the recipes we'd worked out together.
He had imported a Chinese brew system worth north of $100k and was about to open a brewery in NE Vic!
I helped him with his first 3-4 batches. Each brew length was 2,000L! He had 4x500L fermenters, digital temp control on each, full glycol cooling system, filters, etc, etc. Thank God he knew where all the pumps and hoses went because I had no idea!
He ran a successful brewery until a few things happened. Bushfires buggered the tourist industry, then Covid did the same, then his wife died, then he got crook. He ended up selling it.
There's still a robust porter on tap at the brewery that I developed - Philthy Phil's Porter!!
