Homebrew

@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217792) said:
Asahi Black
Malt:
Premium Pilsner Weyermann 2.1kg
Munich T1 Weyermann 1.1kg
Caramunich Type 2 Weyermann 0.4kg
Chocolate Malt Simpsons UK 0.4kg
Roasted Barley Barret Burtson (Aust) 0.05kg
Flaked Rice (Brown) 0.5kg
Sugars:
Rice Syrup (Brown) 0.25kg
Hops:
Saaz 54gms at 60 minutes
Additives:
Half Whirlfloc tablet at 15 minutes
Yeast nutrient 5gms at 15 minutes
Yeast:
Saflager 34/70
Process:
Mash for 60 minutes @66 degrees in 16 Litres. Sparge with 15.8 litres @ 83 degrees. Rack into fermenter @ approx. 20 degrees and add yeast.
Robo was set to 72 degrees during mash.
Saflager was rehydrated at about 20 degrees about 90 minutes ahead of pitching.

Sorry about the layout of that. I don't know whether I can put an attachment up here (like a word document) or how to do it if you can.

The recipe is for 23 litre batch.

Towards the end of fermentation (12 to 15 degrees, because it's a lager) I raise the temperature gradually to 17 degrees and hold it there for a couple of days so that the yeast will clean up any diacetyl.

Mate that looks good, I'll give that a try when my fermenter is free lol
 
With that Asahi recipe I forgot to say that my mash and sparge water volumes are dictated by using the robo brew. The Robobrew has about 8.5 litres of liquid that sits below the mash pipe. I use the Brewer's Friend program for calculating most things on brew day including total water volume, but I have my own calcs for mash volume which is 1.5 litres per kg of grain plus 8.5 litres.

My sparge water is calculated by deducting the strike (mash) volume from the total water calculated by the Brewer's Friend program.

That program can be downloaded for free
 
@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217786) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217778) said:
@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217773) said:
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217758) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217745) said:
https://www.cleverbrewing.com.au/mkii-temperature-controller.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-af6BRC5ARIsAALPIlVU0Td23LvkwXdGxkqIikCIjv5I1dfHKSbaIwJtAVQo1l0ZIYjT_XsaAg07EALw_wcB

Something like this added to you fridge allows you to control the temp.

You can get them cheaper on ebay etc. I wouldn't worry about it too much for my 1st brew. Just brew a simple ale and you should be able to get it to a satisfactory temp in your garage, especially this time of year.

Cheers. I didn't know those things existed. My kegerator (old fridge) is abit temperamental. This might get it at a nice temp

I use one of these with a heat belt plugged into it. the belt goes around my fermenter. Set the temp for 13 degrees. It has a one degree tolerance, so every time the temperature of the brew drops to 12 degrees it turns the heat belt on.

you can use them to control fridges and freezers as well.

I used to use a heat belt in winter but found in summer I was having trouble keeping my stouts at around 24 degrees. Nothing worse than the flavours you get if you get the temp too high, also really bad for hangovers lol

I usually only brew ales in summer and very often just have to stop brewing for extended periods. We get a lot of 30+ days down here and it's a bit hit and miss trying to control the temp with wet towels and ice packs.

If I had room I'd use a chest freezer plugged into my temperature controller. Might have to see if I can shift some of the missus' junk out of the corner of the garage.

I started temp control with an $80 bar fridge lol, but its a bit harder with a fermentasaurus as it doesn't fit as easily.
 
This is my Belgian Dubbel recipe. Again 23 litres final volume. 60 minutes mash and 60 minutes boil. The result was pretty close to a Leffe Blonde taste.

The liquid yeast is expensive but I harvest my own now on completion of ferment. In this case I used one packet of yeast and it took some time for fermentation to commence. I recommend using two packets or using a yeast starter.

Belgian Dubbel
Grain:
Extra Pale Premium Pilsner – Weyermann 4.1kg
Munich T2 – Weyermann 0.4kg
Caramunich Type 2 – Weyermann 0.2kg
Melanoidin Malt – Weyermann 0.2kg
Caraaroma – Weyermann 0.1kg
Mash 60 mins
Added at boil:
Belgian Candi Syrup Golden 0.15kg
Belgian Candi Syrup extra dark 0.15kg
Raw Cane Sugar 0.1kg
Boil for 60 mins.
Hops:
Styrian Goldings 25 grams at 60 mins
Styrian Goldings 15 grams at 15 mins
Yeast:
Abbey Ale WLP530

If you cant get the WLP530 just go on line and look for a yeast substitute chart. I'm sure there will be an equivalent dry yeast.
 
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217804) said:
How big is a batch and hope long to brew it? You guys are gonna get sick of me

Most of the time using basic fermenters and extracts you are looking at 23L per batch. Primary fermentation takes around a week depending on the temperature, after that it depends what you do with it. If you bottle 2nd fermentation will take about 2 weeks after which the beer will be ready drink but taste will improve more if you leave it longer. Basically if you go buy a coopers kit etc you will have a drinkable beer in about 3 weeks but it will be basic, but I recommend basic for 1st time brewers.


If you brew a stout you are looking at 18 litres which is why they are thicker.
 
The good thing about brewing in a fermentasaurus and kegging is that you can brew under pressure and then transfer under pressure directly into keg(s). That means that the brew is never in contact with the air and the product you are producing is much more consistent and rarely has any of those off flavours that turn people away from home brew. Even the missus drinks it.

I've only once had a bad brew and even then it was drinkable.

I didn't drink it though. Life's too short. I left it out on the back deck and the Beer Fairy came and took it away. She didn't leave any money for it though. The Beer Fairy is a tight-arse.
 
@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217829) said:
The good thing about brewing in a fermentasaurus and kegging is that you can brew under pressure and then transfer under pressure directly into keg(s). That means that the brew is never in contact with the air and the product you are producing is much more consistent and rarely has any of those off flavours that turn people away from home brew. Even the missus drinks it.

I've only once had a bad brew and even then it was drinkable.

I didn't drink it though. Life's too short. I left it out on the back deck and the Beer Fairy came and took it away. She didn't leave any money for it though. The Beer Fairy is a tight-arse.

That is exactly why I changed to a fermentasaurus, I have mate who then use that has a keg as well but haven't tried his brews.

My Beer Fairy is an alcoholic.
 
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217861) said:
@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217829) said:
The good thing about brewing in a fermentasaurus and kegging is that you can brew under pressure and then transfer under pressure directly into keg(s). That means that the brew is never in contact with the air and the product you are producing is much more consistent and rarely has any of those off flavours that turn people away from home brew. Even the missus drinks it.

I've only once had a bad brew and even then it was drinkable.

I didn't drink it though. Life's too short. I left it out on the back deck and the Beer Fairy came and took it away. She didn't leave any money for it though. The Beer Fairy is a tight-arse.

That is exactly why I changed to a fermentasaurus, I have mate who then use that has a keg as well but haven't tried his brews.

My Beer Fairy is an alcoholic.

I recommend the Belgian Dubbel. At around 7%ABV it can be a bit lethal if you're not careful but it's the perfect brew for Wests Tigers supporters at this end of the season.
 
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217782) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217778) said:
@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217773) said:
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217758) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217745) said:
https://www.cleverbrewing.com.au/mkii-temperature-controller.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-af6BRC5ARIsAALPIlVU0Td23LvkwXdGxkqIikCIjv5I1dfHKSbaIwJtAVQo1l0ZIYjT_XsaAg07EALw_wcB

Something like this added to you fridge allows you to control the temp.

You can get them cheaper on ebay etc. I wouldn't worry about it too much for my 1st brew. Just brew a simple ale and you should be able to get it to a satisfactory temp in your garage, especially this time of year.

Cheers. I didn't know those things existed. My kegerator (old fridge) is abit temperamental. This might get it at a nice temp

I use one of these with a heat belt plugged into it. the belt goes around my fermenter. Set the temp for 13 degrees. It has a one degree tolerance, so every time the temperature of the brew drops to 12 degrees it turns the heat belt on.

you can use them to control fridges and freezers as well.

I used to use a heat belt in winter but found in summer I was having trouble keeping my stouts at around 24 degrees. Nothing worse than the flavours you get if you get the temp too high, also really bad for hangovers lol

So those thermostats will get an ordinary fridge to sit at 24deg?


No, they keep the fridge at a preset temperature using either a heat pad to increase the temp or run the fridge to reduce temp , I use an “ inkbird” temp controller. You plug both heat pad and fridge into it and it does the rest
 
@rex2ce said in [Homebrew](/post/1217933) said:
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217782) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217778) said:
@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217773) said:
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217758) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217745) said:
https://www.cleverbrewing.com.au/mkii-temperature-controller.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-af6BRC5ARIsAALPIlVU0Td23LvkwXdGxkqIikCIjv5I1dfHKSbaIwJtAVQo1l0ZIYjT_XsaAg07EALw_wcB

Something like this added to you fridge allows you to control the temp.

You can get them cheaper on ebay etc. I wouldn't worry about it too much for my 1st brew. Just brew a simple ale and you should be able to get it to a satisfactory temp in your garage, especially this time of year.

Cheers. I didn't know those things existed. My kegerator (old fridge) is abit temperamental. This might get it at a nice temp

I use one of these with a heat belt plugged into it. the belt goes around my fermenter. Set the temp for 13 degrees. It has a one degree tolerance, so every time the temperature of the brew drops to 12 degrees it turns the heat belt on.

you can use them to control fridges and freezers as well.

I used to use a heat belt in winter but found in summer I was having trouble keeping my stouts at around 24 degrees. Nothing worse than the flavours you get if you get the temp too high, also really bad for hangovers lol

So those thermostats will get an ordinary fridge to sit at 24deg?


No, they keep the fridge at a preset temperature using either a heat pad to increase the temp or run the fridge to reduce temp , I use an “ inkbird” temp controller. You plug both heat pad and fridge into it and it does the rest

Ah right, was wondering how a Fridge gets to 25
 
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217942) said:
@rex2ce said in [Homebrew](/post/1217933) said:
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217782) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217778) said:
@tigger said in [Homebrew](/post/1217773) said:
@gallagher said in [Homebrew](/post/1217758) said:
@cochise said in [Homebrew](/post/1217745) said:
https://www.cleverbrewing.com.au/mkii-temperature-controller.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-af6BRC5ARIsAALPIlVU0Td23LvkwXdGxkqIikCIjv5I1dfHKSbaIwJtAVQo1l0ZIYjT_XsaAg07EALw_wcB

Something like this added to you fridge allows you to control the temp.

You can get them cheaper on ebay etc. I wouldn't worry about it too much for my 1st brew. Just brew a simple ale and you should be able to get it to a satisfactory temp in your garage, especially this time of year.

Cheers. I didn't know those things existed. My kegerator (old fridge) is abit temperamental. This might get it at a nice temp

I use one of these with a heat belt plugged into it. the belt goes around my fermenter. Set the temp for 13 degrees. It has a one degree tolerance, so every time the temperature of the brew drops to 12 degrees it turns the heat belt on.

you can use them to control fridges and freezers as well.

I used to use a heat belt in winter but found in summer I was having trouble keeping my stouts at around 24 degrees. Nothing worse than the flavours you get if you get the temp too high, also really bad for hangovers lol

So those thermostats will get an ordinary fridge to sit at 24deg?


No, they keep the fridge at a preset temperature using either a heat pad to increase the temp or run the fridge to reduce temp , I use an “ inkbird” temp controller. You plug both heat pad and fridge into it and it does the rest

Ah right, was wondering how a Fridge gets to 25

Yeah I use heat belt in mine.
 
At last a decent thread on the forum. I've been brewing on and off since '92. My current brew in the fermenter is a Festbier (Brew Number 570) using 34/70. The only liquid yeasts I've ever used was a few starters of Cooper's Pale Ale yeast. I get most of my gear online since the local brew shop is next to useless since they only seem to cater to the kit/extract brewer.
 
@Cultured_Bogan said in [Homebrew](/post/1218025) said:
To start off, are you better of just doing a kit brew until you master the basics of it?

I believe so, minimal work and in a few weeks you have a drinkable beer. You basically use an extract to create your wort. Then over time you just start trying different grains to get a better taste.

Using an extract you will have your brew fermenting with about 30 mins effort.
 
To the original poster, I've got a tonne of brew books but one which stands out the most is John Palmer's How to Brew.
 
I've been brewing all grain brews for about 2 years now but, until recently I've had my grain supplier mill the grain bill using an industrial size grain mill.

About a month ago I bought a Malt Muncher 2 roller grain mill and I set the mill at the recommended gap of around .375mm. My first brew with it was a bit ordinary (a Kolsch). A completely stuck sparge that I spent ages excavating in with a long handled stirrer. The resulting wort was a bit like a porridge and no matter what I did I couldn't get the brew to clear.

My second effort I moved the gap to .45mm (approx) to brew an Asahi Black clone. Better. I didn't have to dig around in the mash but the sparge process still took about an hour with 16 litres of sparge water. The black looks and smells good though.

Tomorrow I'm brewing a pilsner and I thought I might push the gap out to .5mm.

Do any of you have experience using one of these grain mills? Am I on the right track here or should I be pushing the gap out much wider.

The equipment supplier hasn't been very forthcoming with advice.
 
Have been struggling to find affordable stouts that I can really enjoy. Tried founders breakfast stout a while ago and it blew me away but too pricey.

How long did it take you guys to get good enough to start to reliably make your favourites?
 

Members online

Back
Top